Saturday, two days in, and I'm still getting used to a different time zone. My internal clock wants to get me up three hours early. I go back to sleep and have a weird dream in which I am Liz Lemon. (What, like I'm not in real life?) Soon enough, the real get-up time comes. I get cleaned up and hang out in the lobby for a little while, using the wi-fi and waiting for my friend. There's a swarm of cruise traffic and flight crews checking in and checking out. There's also an education convention here, too, and that gets interesting as well.
My friend and I have breakfast. He opts for the buffet again, and I toy with the mega-waffle again but settle for a bowl of granola, fruit and yogurt. I'm eating like crazy on this trip, and discretion should be the better part of valor at least some of the time.
We're on the road for Bremerton today. My friend had agonized over taking the ferry vs. taking the drive around vs. parking the car in Seattle and doing the walk-on deal, and finally settled on us driving around and taking the ferry back with the car. So we set out. I'd been on the phone with a friend who works with the Navy up here, and he was going to meet up with us over in Bremerton. It's a beautiful drive. Somewhere around Tacoma I get a phone call from my friend and we agree on a rendezvous point (a decommissioned destroyer now serving as a museum ship near the ferry dock) and time. All is good.
The drive is gorgeous. We round Tacoma and cross the narrows over the Tacoma Narrows Bridge, the 1950 bridge that replaced "Galloping Gertie." This means a lot to me, because Gertie's been a fascination for more than 20 years or so. Now here I am, crossing the bridge that replaced one of history's most famous engineering disasters.
In a little while, we're coming up on Bremerton. It's a visit I was fated to make, sooner or later. About 20 years ago I thought I was moving up here to work on a museum project, but it never came to pass. Now, though, here I am. We come around a couple of curves, and, big as life, there's the naval shipyard. Three decommissioned aircraft carriers sit stripped, awaiting their fates. Three big ships -- Independence, Constellation, Ranger, their deeds well known to me, ships whose names were constantly in news stories when I was growing up. There they are, faded, stripped, peeling, riding high in the water. They remain majestic, even as powerless as they are. You wish they didn't have to sit through this, waiting year after year for whatever fate is coming.
Around the naval shipyard we go, into town. But we didn't count on what was going on that day. We'd noticed flags at half-staff, and had wondered who died. Well, much of Bremerton is blocked off. We notice a parade going on. Lots of full-dress ROTC types in chromed helmet liners and plated Garand drill rifles. Downtown is a mess, and the detours snake us around a town we're already unfamiliar with. Since we're early, though, it's no big deal.
We're not due at the museum until noon, so we take some time to reconnoiter a route to the ferry pier. A few twists and turns, and there's the ferry dock. Only we don't see a turn-around. Ah, crap. Then, salvation. There's a turn-around. In the queue ahead of us is a large white passenger van. We fall in behind it. Problem is, the van is too long to make the turnaround in one move. The driver hits reverse. The next thing I know, I'm shouting the name of a preferred higher power, my friend is leaning on the horn, and there's a very slight nudge to our front end. The van's driver pulls forward, hits the gas, and is gone. Since it all happens in a hurry, and since we're not sure if there's any damage, neither of us has the presence of mind to get a tag number. We make the turnaround, then my friend hops out to see if anything happened to the car. As soon as he makes it around to the front end, I know something happened, and that it wasn't good.
We worm our way around, trying to find a place that's safe to park and call the appropriate parties. We end up finding a parking place across the river. I hop outside with my phone and notify my friend we're meeting up with that we've had something happen and may be a little late. Right then, I wasn't expecting it to take very long; by then, I'd had a look at the damage, and it wasn't much. It almost looked like you'd taken a fist and punched the corner of the front bumper; the damage would probably pop right out, and any paint damage could be polished out with a little compound. Still, better to let the rental firm know.
To make a long story short, the next hour and a half was like a really sick series of bureaucratic jokes involving the rental agency, an insurer, and, eventually, the local cops. We had to call them to file a report because the rental agency insisted on a police report and case number. And getting hold of the Bremerton cops on a weekend was a real effort, especially for a car accident with no injuries. All the while, I'm playing constant telephone tag with my friend, who's across the river aboard the very museum ship we were then supposed to be aboard, the very ship I am staring at as we wait and wait for this all to play out.
Finally, the cop finds us and does what he has to do. He's pretty cool about it all, a little frustrated that the rental agencies make them do this kind of thing (it eats up time they could be spending on more serious things). He's very professional, but also very pleasant to us, and after everything that's happened, that's as much a relief as anything.
At long and blessed last, we're free to go. We wind our way back across the river and finally make it to the museum, where my friend awaits. He's already paid our admission and we can go aboard, but first, my friend and I are parched, and we shotgun a 24-ounce soft drink each before going aboard. It's a welcome relief.
Then it's time to go aboard USS Turner Joy. Maybe that name sounds familiar? Well, this ship was involved in the second round of the Gulf of Tonkin incident in 1964. (The other destroyer involved in the incident, USS Maddox, went off to her fate long ago.) Turner Joy served in the Pacific Fleet for more than two decades before being laid up at the Puget Sound Naval Shipyard. While most of her sister ships were scrapped or expended as targets, Turner Joy instead was towed around the corner and opened as a museum ship along the redeveloped Bremerton waterfront. The ship has been well cared for, and though there have been a few modifications made in the name of accessibility and tourism, Turner Joy still feels much like a working warship.
My friend is a retired Navy officer who now works with the Navy as a civilian. Before he retired, he was chief engineer on a destroyer. He was assigned to ships similar to Turner Joy, and the first hour of our tour is spent below decks, getting a detailed crash course down in the engine and boiler rooms. We learn a lot of stuff that you'll never find in the textbooks, and it's great.
In all, we spend a couple hours aboard, and it's time well spent. As we're climbing all around the ship, though, I take a glance over towards the shipyard. Something caught my eye and made me do a double-take. Sure enough, sitting over in the yard was a big ship with the number "63" painted on the island. It was an old friend I hadn't seen in 18 years, the aircraft carrier Kitty Hawk. In 1991 we took a vacation to Virginia and dropped by during the open-house at Norfolk one Saturday. Kitty Hawk was just back from a major overhaul and was open for visiting, and we went aboard. Now Kitty Hawk's back from her final deployment, just decommissioned a few days before, awaiting whatever fate holds for her.
Soon we're back on the pier, and we talk a while with my friend before it's time to go. While my friends talk engineering, we notice an eagle perching atop Turner Joy's mast. Another one comes along, and I try my best with the point-and-shoot digital camera I'm using on the trip.
It's getting late, and we need to catch the ferry back to Seattle. We drive over, buy our ticket, and park the car in line. There's a lot of shops around the ferry terminal, and my friend and I go to a nearby ice cream parlor for something to tide us over. We come back to the car and eat ice cream and listen to music. Soon the ferry arrives and we drive aboard, leave the car and head topside. As we pull away, I take some farewell pictures of Kitty Hawk. (I've deliberately not Photoshopped these. In their original state, they capture what I was feeling.)
I also notice something else: what's left of the nuclear-powered cruiser Long Beach.
I hadn't known what to expect on this ferry trip. It ended up being one of the most memorable parts of the whole journey. My friend and I spent the trip at the railings, taking pictures and talking about life and everything else. To describe it would be to take away from the moment, but it was one of those moments that you want to file away in the back of your mind for when life gets really bad; you can always remember this moment, on the ferry headed back for Seattle, surrounded by all this gorgeous scenery, the mist splashing over the bow, Rainier looming in the background, the seagulls flying formation with you, the wind meeting you head-on...and all you can think about is, holy cow, how lucky is your life that you get to do stuff like this?
Soon the Emerald City is dead ahead:
A couple of Coast Guard icebreakers in for maintenance, one in a floating drydock alongside another ship in another floating drydock:
And too soon the Walla Walla pulls in alongside a sister ferry.
All too soon, it's time to claim the car and drive off. Seattle's a mess to drive in as it is, but the ferry traffic lets out right near Safeco Field. And there's a game. Not just any game, mind you, but the Red Sox are in town. And it's a Saturday night. What a mess. After a bit, though, we're out of the snarl. A quick stop at a store for some supplies, and then it's back to the Doubletree. We get something to eat, kill a bottle of really good sherry, and then call it an evening. It's been a too-long day.
Back in my room, I give myself some time to enjoy one more night's worth of cool breeze through my open door before bedtime. I won't get this again anytime soon, so best enjoy it while I can.